Be Merry Be Bright- Vintage Christmas Bulb Table Decor

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Vintage Christmas Ornaments

Creating Personalized NAME Cuffs

Chocolate Candy Cane Cookies

A great Recipe from The Pioneer Woman Cooks- A Year of Holidays-

Ingredients

• 2 sticks Salted Butter, Slightly Softened
• 1 cup Powdered (Confectioners) Sugar
• 1 whole Egg
• 2 teaspoons Vanilla
• 2-½ cups Flour
• ½ cups Unsweetened Cocoa Powder
• 1 teaspoon Salt
• 4 ounces, weight (4 Squares) Almond Bark Or White Baking Chocolate (almond Bark Works Best And Is Cheaper)
• Large Handful Of Red Or Green Peppermints

Preparation Instructions

Cream softened butter with powdered sugar. Add egg and vanilla and mix to combine. Add dry ingredients and mix together until dough comes together. Place plastic wrap on surface of dough and refrigerate for 2 hours.

In the meantime, unwrap candies and place them in a plastic bag. Beat with a mallet until finely crushed, leaving larger chunks if desired.

Preheat oven to 375 degrees.

Roll cookie dough in walnut-sized pieces and place on a cookie sheet. Gently press balls flat with a plain, smooth surface. Bake for 7 to 9 minutes, being careful not to burn. Cookies will remain the same general size and shape after they bake. Remove from oven and place cookies on a cooling rack. Allow them to cool completely.

Place crushed candies in bowl. Melt almond bark in the microwave. Dip cooled cookies into almond bark, coating half the cookie. Immediately sprinkle crushed peppermints over both sides of the almond bark. Gently set on parchment paper or other nonstick surface and allow to cool before serving.

Snowman Cookies Tis the Season to be Jolly Tags

Holiday Baking has begun

Fun Project Vintage Snow Couple

I loved making this sweet Snow Jar Couple - lots of Glitter and fun vintage bit went into this project...  Perfect for our First Snowy Day!!

Working on Christmas Ornaments Today

Vintage Skyway Travel Case

Upcycled Boot Sweaters

Vintage Luggage

Chocolate Buttermilk Cake with Cream Cheese Frosting

We Love this Cake... So simple but Delicious .. Quinn Made this treat for us yesterday afternoon.

Chocolate Buttermilk Cake

3 cups flour

1/2 cup Natural Cocoa Powder

1 tsp salt

2 Cups Sugar

1 Cup Vegetable oil

1 cup Buttermilk

1 large egg

2 tsp baking soda

1 cup boiling water

1 tsp vanilla extract

Cream Cheese Frosting

3 ounces cream cheese

1/2 cup butter softened

1 tsp vanilla

1 cup powdered sugar

Preheat oven to 350.  In a large bowl, sift together flour, cocoa, and salt.  In a separate bowl, combine sugar, oil, buttermilk, and egg and mix well.  Add the dry ingredients to the egg mixture and beat well.  Add the baking soda and then the boiling water.  Mix well and then stir in the vanilla.  The batter will be very thin.  Pour into a greased and floured 9 x 13 inch cake pan and bake at 350  for 40 to 45 minutes. Let cool before frosting.  To prepare the frosting, cream together the cream cheese and butter until fluffy.  Add the vanilla, sift in the powdered sugar and beat until well blended.  

Thank You Cookies for A Volunteer Appreciation Event

The Tags Say
"Volunteers don't necessarily have the time; they just have the heart."

Rural Route Rust Sale

Junk Shows Coming Soon!!

Busy Getting ready for a couple of fun Events...

Happy Halloween- A Little Ghostly Baking

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Baby Shower Card and Cookies

Creating a few Leather Cuff Bracelets for November Shows

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Reuben

Fun Junk Jewelry Bits to Repurpose

                                                     Love all the orange Glass Beads!

Creating Halloween Pendants

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When to Use Furniture Wax and When to use Hemp Oil

I love using both products for the top coat on painted pieces of furniture but this article sums it up.  I found that I may have been using too much wax and hemp oil  and learned great tips!! 

This is a Great Article about Furniture Wax and Hemp oil from MissMustardSeed.com:

Furniture Wax

When to use it…

You can use it anytime you want to add a topcoat to a piece with a porous surface.  You do notneed to use wax over a piece with a satin, semi-gloss, or gloss finish.  Those paints can hold up fine on their own and any wax applied will just sit on top of the surface, not really serving a purpose.  Applying wax to a porous surface like flat latex, flat acrylic, milk paint, raw wood, stained wood, etc. is key.  It is absorbed into the pores of the surface, creating a hard and durable finish.

You can basically use any brand of wax over any brand of paint, so just figure out the combination that you like.

How to apply it…

Wax can be applied with a brush…

…or a cloth.

I know that wax brushes are all the rage (I’m coming out with one of my own in fact), but you don’t have to strictly use a wax brush to apply wax.  These brushes are well suited to the task because they have natural bristles and a lot of them!  They hold a lot of wax and are ideal for spreading it and getting it into the details of a piece.  If you don’t have one of these brushes, though, you can use an old paint brush that has bushy bristles.  That will do the trick.  For a cloth, make sure it’s a lint-free cotton cloth.

With both types of applications, only apply a very thin layer of wax.  I know, especially with the brushes, it’s easy to load the brush with a huge glob of wax, but that’s going to give you headaches.  If your wax is smeary, smudgy, sticky to the touch, hazy, etc. you have applied too much.  Massage the wax into the surface as you would apply lotion to your hands.  This will also give you a nice and even finish.

The more coats of wax you apply and the more you buff it, the shinier it will get.

Drying time, durability & care…

Wax should feel dry to the touch just after it’s applied and rubbed into the surface.  It’s okay if it feels slightly waxy or a little cold, but it shouldn’t feel sticky or wet.  You can start using the piece right away, but give it a full 30 days to cure.  During the cure time, just be gentle with it.  For cleaning, I just dry dust it with a cloth or scrub it with a wet cloth for dried on yogurt, oatmeal and the like.  The thing I love most about wax is that you can simply reapply it if a piece starts looking tired or gets scratched.  Lightly sand it with some steel wool, apply another coat, buff it and you have a new finish in about 15 minutes.  You can’t do that with poly!

The downsides to wax…

As I unfortunately learned one year at the Lucketts Antique Market, wax is sensitive to heat.  Just like crayons left in a car, a wax finish will melt in intense sun or heat.  For that reason, it’s not a good option to use on pieces if you sell them outside or are going to put them on a sun porch, etc.  It’ll do fine with some sunshine on it through a window or sitting near a radiator, as long as it doesn’t get too hot.  Keep this in mind if the piece will be stored in a truck or storage unit that isn’t climate controlled.  This is true of all brands of waxes, by the way.

The other downside is that it does take some muscle to do all of the applying and buffing.  I’ve gotten used to it, but it can be a lot  on the biceps!

Hemp Oil

 When to use it…

 Hemp Oil can be used as a top coat and, like wax, is best on porous surfaces, so it can penetrate the surface instead of just hanging out on top.  If you use Hemp Oil as a topcoat, that is all you need.  You don’t have to put something else on top of it.

 It is also awesome at reviving wood that is dried out, water damaged and has lost its luster.  Again, the surface needs to be porous to work.  It’s not going to do much for a poly finish that looks tired.

 How to apply Hemp Oil…

For a while, I applied it with a cloth, but I have started using a brush in recent months.  I feel like it’s a little faster and works the oil in a bit better, but a cloth will certainly do the trick and is probably better for large, flat surfaces.  You just wipe it on, let it soak in and then wipe away the excess.

It can also be used to “wet sand” a piece.  I just learned this technique at the retailer’s training in Baltimore and it rocked my world.  Brush on some oil, then sand with some fine sand paper.  Wipe away the excess oil with a cloth.  You can either sand to smooth or sand to distress with this technique and the result is a buttery smooth finish.

 Hemp Oil provides a matte, almost satin finish, but the level of sheen increases with each coat.   I usually just apply one coat on the body of pieces and two coats on the tops for a little added durability.  The key with Hemp Oil, though, is to only apply what the surface will absorb.  If you apply too many coats, the oil will just sit on top.  There’s no harm if that happens, but you have to wipe the excess oil away and it’s a bit of a waste.

Drying Time, Care & Durability…

Hemp oil dries to the touch very quickly, because it’s absorbed into the finish.  In other terms, it’s sort of the difference between lotion (Hemp Oil & Wax) and nail polish (latex, acrylic, poly, etc.)  While the oil is dry to the touch, it does need about 30 days to fully cure.  You can use the piece during this period, but it might feel a little oily to the touch while it’s curing.

I care for it the same way I do the waxed pieces.  Just a dry cloth for dusting and a damp cloth if something is being stubborn.  If the finish looks tired or is marred, I just rub on another coat of Hemp Oil (and wet sanding would be a great idea here, too.)

 The downsides to Hemp Oil…

I haven’t tried painting over a piece that has cured Hemp Oil on it, but I’m guessing that might be a little tricky.  Some sanding and a bonding primer may be in order, but I’m not really sure.  I’ll have to let you know when I try it or hear from someone who has.

The other downside, if it really is one, is that it doesn’t have anything added to it.  It’s just oil, so it doesn’t have the “solids” and other things that make a finish feel hard to the touch.  A Hemp Oil finish doesn’t feel as hard as a wax or poly finish, but it is working and is very durable.  So, this isn’t really a negative, but something you need to expect and get used to.

So, which is better and which do you use when?

This is totally a preference thing.  I use both and love both.  I use Hemp Oil when I know a piece will be exposed to heat, so I don’t have to worry about melting.  I use wax when I’m just in the mood to use wax!  So, you’re really going to have to answer this question for yourself.  You may find you prefer one over the other or you like something else entirely!

I hope explaining the differences will help you decide.

Rustic Word Cuffs

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Loving Miss Mustard Seed Milk Paint!!!

I have had this Antique Dresser for a long time- Craigslist Find- .  I have been wanting to paint and finally got that task finished yesterday.  The most time consuming part was scraping layers of very shiny varnish off of it and sanding.  The paint went on Beautifully.

I used Miss Mustard Seed Milk Paint 'Typewriter' and finished it off with a great product to seal and protect it.  - Miss Mustard Seed's Hemp oil.  I am excited about SimplyHomeSweetHome becoming a Retailer of these great Products!

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Classic Italian Pasta Salad

• 1 lb dry salad macaroni
• 1 (6oz) package pepperoni slices (about 90 in the package) 
• 1 lb Colby Jack cheese block
• 1 (6oz) can whole medium pitted olives
• 1 (16 fl oz) bottle Kraft Tuscan House Italian Dressing* (or other favorite Italian dressing)
• 1/4 cup grated parmesan cheese

1. Boil salad macaroni according to directions on the package.  Drain & rinse in cold water.
2. Meanwhile, cut pepperoni into quarters & roughly separate the pieces.
3. Cut cheese into thin slices & then squares & roughly separate the pieces (or fatter cubes if desired.)
4. Slice olives with an egg slicer or knife.
5. Add everything into one bowl & top with dressing & parmesan cheese.  Toss to coat.  Serve immediately.  Keep leftovers refrigerated.

*If preparing ahead of time, apply extra dressing to freshen the salad right before serving.  The longer it sits in the fridge the more it absorbs the dressing.

Serves 16-20

Lasagna Soup

Cheesy Lasagna
Soup








1 pound ground beef

1 medium onion, sliced

2 large green peppers, chopped

2 cloves garlic, finely chopped

4 cups water

2 cans (14 1/2 oz each) diced tomatoes in olive oil, garlic and spices,
undrained

1 can (6 oz) tomato paste

2 cups (4 oz) uncooked mafalsa noodles (mini lasagna noodles)

1 tablespoon brown sugar

1 1/2 teaspoon Italian seasoning, crumbled

1/4 teaspoon black pepper

1 1/2 cups Italian style croutons

1 1/2 cups shredded mozzarella cheese

1 teaspoon crushed red pepper

1/2 cup dry red wine


Cook beef, onion, bell pepper and garlic in Dutch oven over medium heat
stirring occasionally until beef is brown and onion is tender.  Drain.
Stir in water, diced tomatoes and tomato paste until blended.  Stir
in remaining ingredients except croutons and cheese.  Heat to boiling and
reduce heat.  Cover and simmer about 10 minutes, stirring occasionally
until pasta is tender.



Set oven control to broil.  pour soup into ovenproof bowls.  Top each
with 1/4 cup croutons and sprinkle with cheese.  Broil soup with tops 3-4
inches from heat 1-2 minutes or until cheese is melted.




IIf you can not find mafalada noodles,  substitute cork screw or
small shells for the noodles.